Along a narrow street called Kondilaki, which goes inland from the port at Chania, there is a bar called the Kalh Kardia, or Good Heart, which does the very best Souvlaki or Greek kebabs, not to mention other Greek specialities. Most importantly, they have live Cretan music every night, performed by a couple who are the genuine article, having been stars of this genre in their youth, and still have a wide reputation. Asbasia and Pavlos are related to the owners of the Kalh Kardia, and although beyond retirement age, apart from playing in the bar for several hours each night, Pavlos has a vineyard and wine press in which he plays an active part during harvesting and grape-treading time.
Below: view from within the Kalh Kardia, out to the street, showing Asbasia playing her lyra, which is like a small violin, and Pavlos the lauoto, a stringed instrument which is not the same as a bazouki at all. We don't mention "Greek" music here...
As they are playing, Asbasia and Pavlos sing traditional Cretan songs, which have to contain all the original lyrics, which might be about farming, or poverty, or other issues important to these farming people over the centuries. Real Cretan musicians are not allowed to write new songs, or change the words away from these original themes, although they are allowed to re-work the original melodies a little.
Below is a better view of the lyra, which has a haunting sound which sounds like it comes from somewhere east or south of Crete (which is north of Libya, and west of Turkey).
On the far right of the picture below is Grigori, who is also one of the family business team. In summer they move the tables out onto the street behind him, and you can sit outside, have dinner and be serenaded by Asbasia and Grigori, if you can tolerate people walking right by you, and the occasional bike or scooter.
